Spring 2013. Ikiré Jones.
I have to say, semiotically, this garment has a lot to tell us. Often the #menswear universe seems peopled by mainly affluent white guys who absorb elements of black culture – for example, a preoccupation with rap and the use of urban/Hip Hop slang, the origins of which could not be further from the deeply middle class suburbs that many menswear bloggers call home. It goes without saying that I think this is a good thing, and both through my own environment and tumblr itself I have embraced the two aforementioned elements. What’s interesting here though, is the customisation of a fairly traditional garment, the relatively classically cut sports coat, with African print on the under collar rather than a standard melton.
For many, traditional tailoring inevitably speaks of a profoundly hierarchical white culture, and one of the reasons I’m excited to see more from Ikiré Jones is because he is taking what is interesting from Anglo-American clothing history (the rakish conservatism of swooping peak lapels which call to mind the ‘golden age’ of tailored dressing) and juxtaposing it in an unexpected way with the bold vitality of African prints. I suppose this is a somewhat convoluted way of saying that garments such as this are emblematic of a multi-cultural and thoroughly modern way of dressing; one that puts a remarkable sense of personal identity onto tailored clothing, which all too often can be perceived as the uniform of faceless, white conservatism.
…one that puts a remarkable sense of personal identity onto tailored clothing, which all too often can be perceived as the uniform of faceless, white conservatism
by: ikirejones.com via: truth247365